Introducing the Panzer Fight Stick 4
|This item is available and ships within 2 business days from Virginia when in stock.
Note: Not all colors may be in stock, but they will be regularly restocked so if your color isn’t available – check back soon!
The Panzer Fight Stick 4 is here. It follows design influences from the original, launched in 2013, and has a little bit of something from every iteration between then and today. When you see it, you know it’s a JasensCustoms.com fight stick.
Revolutionary? I wouldn’t say so. It seems like a metal box. Uninspired and boring. I did this in 2013 with the original Panzer , and since then, others have followed suit. At face value I would agree; it might be seen as boring. Sheet metal isn’t sexy. Unless you invest tens of thousands of dollars in metal stamping equipment and specialized stamps, or cut a bunch of small parts and weld them together, it stays rather flat. Just because the design is rather plain at first glance doesn’t mean it isn’t wonderful and that’s what I strive for. My goal from the start was creating a fight stick that serves as a canvas for you to make your own from start to finish with choice in layout, buttons, levers, and art (or lack thereof!) just how you want it..
Like all my Fight Sticks to date, the Panzer Fight Stick 4 doesn’t have fancy opening clamshells with weak hinges that break. There are no thin panels that will rust out. No large gaps between the two halves of the case, and no plastic casings that feel cheap. I didn’t use acrylic panels with finger joints or T-nut style assembly, and there isn’t a single 3D printed part on the case.
What does it have?
- A thick aluminum chassis (2mm!) powder coated with support for multiple layouts and swappable panels. They are strong, rust resistant, and lightweight.
- Countersunk screws on the chassis holding it together for a sleek, yet strong look.
- A removable top panel, common to the Madcatz TE, so both builders and modders benefit from the new production of Panzer 4 parts. Panels are cold rolled steel to add some weight to the final build.
- A custom EZ wiring system that works with all of Brook’s mainline fighting boards (UFB, PS4, PS4+, etc.) leveraging the PFS 2.0 and PFS 3 System of Systems and EZ BUILD concepts.
- A custom Auxiliary area that not only has all aux buttons (home, start, select, L3, R3, TouchPad Click, and Turbo) but also has LED indicators for Player and Turbo functionality! Each aux button is actuated with custom machined aluminum caps inspired by the work I did on the Panzer M and Unibody.
- A unique, premium bottom pad with pressure sensitive adhesive that feels comfortable on your lap but will also keep your stick in place when used on a table. These are the same pads I used on the Panzer 3i, just a different size and without holes for feet threaded insert access.
Quick Jump to:
The Panzer Fight Stick Legacy
I didn’t start making Fight Sticks with the intention of turning it into a business. In 2012 I built a SuperGun and needed a controller to use. Based off a build photo I saw on the NEO-GEO forums using a Hammond Enclosure, I broke out my tools, paint, and wiring skills, then got to work to replicate what I saw. It was functional and nice when done but it was labor intensive and prone to human error when drilling, sanding, painting, and wiring. As I worked on the project, I kept thinking there had to be a better way to do this… someone has to offer an arcade stick shell I can use for other builds. After a few days poking around on the internet, I couldn’t find anything that fit my needs, so I opened up CAD and designed my own. Once it was designed and the final case was built I knew it was going to simplify my future builds and I thought it was neat. I began showing it off to friends and forum members across the internet and the next thing I knew, people were asking me to make them one as well. Jasen’s Customs was born; and little did I know that 10 years later I would be still toiling away trying to find new ways to build functional, high quality all metal fight sticks that were accessible to everyone no matter what their skill level was with a screw driver.
- The chassis in the color of your choice. Limited colors available during the first launch!
- Colors during the launch period include: Black, White, Gray, Blue, and Red.
- The EZ Wiring PCB, Aux Area PCB, and wiring for both lever-based panels and the Hitbox/Shiokenstar panels. This will ensure you can use any panel at any time with your new chassis.
- 5x Light Pipes for the LEDs in the Auxiliary Area.
- 7x Machined Aluminum and anodized button caps for the Auxiliary Area.
- 4x plastic stand offs to use between the fighting board of your choice and the EZ Wiring PCB.
- 6x M4 screws to hold the panel of your choice in place. (Panels purchased separately)
- 4x Long 4-40 screws for the EZ WIRING and Fighting Board attachment.
- 6x Short 4-40 screws for the Auxiliary Area PCB fitment.
- 1x Bottom Pad.
- Any D-Size passthrough for the cable connection to your fighting board. Often this is just USB 2.0 by Neutrik or Switchcraft. They come in both black and silver. Switchcraft normally includes mounting hardware. Neutrik does not. Keep this in mind. These are common and the best quality connector that looks the best. I have used them for years and love them.
- Internal cable (USB most likely) to connect the Fighting Board to your Cable Connection. These can be short, perhaps 12” at the longest. Monoprice.com has the best pricing on these generally.
- The Panzer 4 Panel of your choosing, as well as lever and buttons for the layout of your choice. These are separate items to keep inventory tracking easy and to offer more options to the end user. Just because I like Sega Player 2 doesn’t mean you can’t use a hitbox!
- 13.4” long, 8.3” wide, and 2” tall.
- Approximately 4lbs when built.
- Screws that fix the top and bottom halves are #6-32 flat head.
- Screws that fix the internal PCBs to stand-offs are #4-40 panhead, 1/4″ for the auxiliary PCB and 3/4″ long for the fighting board + EZ Wiring Adapter PCB.
- Screws that fix the top panel down are M4, at least 6mm long.
Note: Most Korean levers are deeper than 2” and likely will not fit in the Panzer 4 chassis. The following have been confirmed to fit:
- Sanjuks V3 (Deneld, via Discord)
- Crown [Samducksa] SDL-301 Infiltration-QR Lever (JasSumal, via Discord)
- Machined Aluminum Panel Bezel – Coming Soon!
- Printed Plexi Artwork